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gear notes

Care and Information: Carabiners

Design of carabiners is driven by strength versus weight on the one hand, and ease of use versus lockability on the other.

Design Discussion
Oval carabiners have been the most popular design since their large, symmetrical interior space holds lots of gear and they work well for carabiner brake rappels. "D" shaped carabiners are also very popular since they have a high strength-to-weight ratio as their design shape places the majority of the load on the carabiners strong spine. Asymmetrical "D" carabiners are smaller at one end than the other to conserve weight, and are often available with bent gates which facilitate clipping the rope in. Many of the modern ‘superlight’ carabiners are usually asymmetrical "D"s. While these are often strong, the narrow diameter rod works as an edge to fray ropes, reduces gate-open strength, and shortens the useful life of the carabiner. Locking Carabiners have a mechanism that locks the gate closed, either a threaded collar or spring-loaded auto-locking. Locking carabiners can be oval, "D" shaped or HMS (pear shaped). "D" and HMS locking carabiners allow several ropes to be clipped! in at one time, making them ideal on your harness or with rappel devices or belay plates. When you are depending on one carabiner only, such as attaching a belay or rappel device to your harness, or tying into a belay anchor, ALWAYS use a locking carabiner. A carabiner with the gate open typically has about 30% - 50% of its rated gate-closed strength. When a carabiner slaps against the wall during a fall, the gate can open momentarily. If the load hits at the moment the gate is open, the carabiner may fail. Using carabiners with strong gate springs or locking collars helps reduce this problem. Likewise, if the rope tracks back against an improperly placed or jammed bent gate carabiner, it could pop the rope out by temporarily releasing the gate. NEVER clip into fixed protection directly, always use a quickdraw or runner. Carabiners loaded on an edge will break at a very low load.
Since modern climbing often requires numerous short falls before success, carabiners (and all your gear) are often worn out quickly. Carabiners are most often made of aluminum, so when they come in contact with steel bolts and pitons, they tend to become grooved and nicked. Retire upon signs of wear. Use steel carabiners if you need exceptional strength AND weight is not a concern.

Maintenance
If your carabiner gate becomes sticky, clean with non-corrosive solvent and lubricate with dry graphite. Your rope will last longer if you use bigger, heavy-duty carabiners which will also accommodate large diameter ropes. Avoid use of carabiners that have burrs, nicks or coating chips as your rope will be abraded.
RETIRE your carabiners once you notice signs of wear, or after a hard fall.
Climb safely! Learn to climb from an expert. There are certain techniques that promote safety—use and always practise them. Use common sense.

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