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Care and Information: Ropes

A rope is the last line of defense for a mountaineer or climber. Unlike other equipment, a rope is not backed up by other equipment, and absolutely cannot fail.

Dynamic and Static Rope

Characteristics
All ropes used for lead climbing are dynamic; that is, they stretch when a fall occurs, effectively cushioning the impact by dissipating the energy of the fall. Dynamic lead ropes are kernmantle construction, consisting of a load-bearing core (kern), and a protective sheath (mantle) around the core. The core determines the load-bearing characteristics of the rope, like maximum impact force before failing and number of test falls held. The sheath primarily determines the rope’s handling characteristics, especially over time. Static ropes aren’t climbing ropes (they don’t stretch), but are useful for hauling and toproping during rescue work and caving, and where there is no chance for a fall.

Things you should know
Maximum breaking strength is the load whereby a single strand of rope breaks (free of knots and bends). The maximum breaking strength is reduced with the introduction of bends, knots, multiple falls, and rock or other natural edges.
Maximum impact force is the maximum load transmitted to the climber during a fall. UIAA certification currently certifies single rope maximum impact of 2640 pounds, and double rope maximum impact of 1760 pounds. Low maximum impact force ropes absorb more of the energy generated in a given fall, thus transmitting less energy to the falling climber and placed protection. The more stretch though, the higher the chances of hitting a ledge or the ground during a fall.
UIAA Certification: UIAA drops a 176 pound weight attached to an 8.25 foot piece of rope a distance of 16.5 feet. The rope is statically anchored, and must survive five consecutive falls for single rope certification.

"Flexibility and Feel" of Dynamic ropes: A stiff rope is difficult to tie into a knot. The more flexible, the easier to tie knots and have them stay tied. ‘Hand’ or feel depends on diameter, sheath weave patterns and tightness, yarn make and size, and ‘dry’ treatments affect not only feel but how well the rope resists abrasion. ‘Dry’ ropes generally wear better because they not only resist water (and weight gain in wet conditions), but the coatings make the ‘dry’ rope more supple so they slide over rock better and through carabiners with less friction. "Kinking" problems usually disappear after the rope has been used a few times.
Selecting a rope: Unless there is NO chance of a fall, choose a dynamic rope. Single ropes are most common, come from 9.8mm to 11mm in diameter, and are identified by ‘number 1’ on the rope label on either end of the rope. Small diameter (Less than 9.8mm) ropes are lighter in weight and clip into protection easier—preferred by expert lead climbers. Thicker ropes are stronger, last longer, and are easier to belay and rappel with—ideal for beginner to intermediate climbers. Double ropes (half ropes) and twin ropes are used in pairs ONLY. Double ropes are often lighter than a single, clip into protection easily, and have reduced rope drag.

Maintenance and Care
Keep your rope clean: Dirt and oils shorten rope life. Never step on your rope. Pad your rope at possible abrasion points. Wash your rope in cold water, using soap NOT detergent. If you use a fabric softener, your rope’s flexibility will improve. NEVER bleach your rope. AIR DRY only away from direct sunlight. NEVER dry your rope in a dryer. Use a rope bag.
Keep your hardware smooth: Nicks, burrs, coating cracks and chips, and stress lines will all abrade your rope quickly (and may represent serious deficiencies in your hardware).
When to retire your rope: It is the responsibility of the USER to make the decision to retire a rope. Generally, you should retire you rope when you can see fraying of the sheath, if the core has flat or lumpy spots, or if the rope is becoming stiff. If your rope has held a long, hard fall it should be retired. As a guideline, retire your rope after two years of weekend use, up to 5 years at most since nylon deteriorates over time.

Rappelling: Fast or bounding rappels, swinging, and some rappel and belay devices that place a sharp bend in the rope cause excessive wear. Avoid these techniques.
NEVER, NEVER, NEVER: Never lend your rope out—know your rope’s history. Never use your rope for anything except climbing. Never tow your car, lower furniture from the second story, haul stuff onto the roof, etc.
Learn to climb from an expert. There are certain techniques that promote safety—learn and always practise them. Use common sense. Always be prepared to cancel your climb if conditions are not right.

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